Questions to ask a Potential Violin

When it comes time to start shopping for your first violin, the world of luthiers and instrument shops can be overwhelming and... sound like greek. With these questions, I will attempt to define some common terms and dispel some of the mystery surrounding the purchase of a student violin (or viola or cello).

What is it made of?

• Composite -  This means plywood, and in some cases more of a cardboard. If you are 'just trying' an instrument, this will suffice for about four weeks of lessons. If it is pink, blue, purple, etc., it is composite. A composite instrument will need to be replaced. Soon.

          AKA: V.S.O. - Violin Shaped Object.

• Solid Top - The top of the instrument (the face) is made of non-composite wood. 
• Maple, Spruce, Rosewood - These are hardwoods and are the stuff true violins are made of. Pine and other softwoods are put in the VSO category. 
• Ebony - Also a hardwood and used for fingerboards. If the fingerboard is not made of ebony or rosewood, it is probably painted and qualifies for VSO standing.
• One Piece Back - violins have traditionally been made by seaming two pieces of wood for the back. A one piece back simply means there is no seam. This has very little to do with sound quality, but does imply that the back is actually made of wood. You have now entered the realm of violins, leaving the VSO's behind.
• Hardwood, softwood - why do I care? A violin is held together by tension, not glue. Strength to withstand that pressure is one reason, and sound production another. Softwood does not resonate - it cannot vibrate efficiently. 

Where was it made?

• Unknown - If there is no label inside the instrument, you have either found a gem or a VSO. Unless this unlabeled violin was surrounded by trip lasers in a glass case inside a luthier's shop, odds are in favor of the latter.
• China - This used to be synonymous with VSO, but that is no longer the case. There are now many reputable workshops located in China - and they all label their instruments. My two favorite instruments are from workshops in China. 
• Czechoslovakia - No, this is no longer a country, but before the Iron Curtain fell it was home to some of the best student violins. 
• Just because an instrument has a lobel... doesn't mean that label is telling the truth. Ask the Google to verify any information - such as luthier and location.

What hardware is it set up with?

• Fine tuners - Should be one with the tail piece, not add-on extenders. 
• Pegs need to both move easily and stay put. Ill fitting pegs can break strings and be a constant frustration. Self adjusting pegs are nifty, but will eventually strip out.
• Nut - an ill fitting nut can also cause string breakage.

Is it cracked? By gently tapping near suspect lines, cracks will creak and become obvious. 

Is the glue intact? Along the bouts, gently squeeze the top and back together against the bout - if you hear anything, like crunchy glue, it will need to see the string doctor.

Does the bridge fit? The feet of the bridge should fit between the f holes like a glove, not tipping or slipping. If you can see daylight between the instrument and the bridge feet, adjustments must be made.

Is the sound post seated? If you hear something rolling around inside, it is either the rattle of a rattlesnake (yes, it was thing), or the sound post has tipped over - it will need to see the string doctor. By looking through the f holes, you will also be able to see if the sound post is seated or on it's way over. If the sound post has tipped or fallen, check extra carefully for cracks; the tension of the bridge and strings without the support of the sound post can crack the top.

Is the button/end pin seated?  An improperly set button can be pulled out by the tension of the tailpiece. The button/end pin should fit snugly and be seated.

Is the gut intact? The tailpiece should be attached with gut or nylgut, but not hard plastic. Old gut could be rotten, so be careful putting tension on an old gut. But don't worry - the explosion that takes place when it breaks isn't as bad as it sounds. As long as you find all the pieces, a new nylgut will bring it all back together.

Does it FIT? This may be the most important question of all - many common injuries are completely preventable, simply by making sure the instrument is the right size. Violin and viola sizes should always leave room for the left elbow to be bent (not almost bent, bent bent) and cello sizing is based on torso length, not height. Fitting will be a post in and of itself at some point... this is a deal breaker.

How much do I want to spend at the string doctor (luthier)? As tempting as it sometimes is to use Great-Uncle Henry's old violin from the attic, carefully consider how much you are willing to invest at the luthier. Just because a violin (or viola or cello) was free doesn't mean it is playable. Like a car, if something is broken, it isn't going to drive down the road.

Is it legit? If it is shiny and cheap, probably not. Thick, shiny varnish is actually a bad thing - it absorbs the sound vibrations, among other things. When in doubt, do some research and ask around.

Learning to play a stringed instrument is an investment - and the instrument itself is a big part of that investment. Beware of the VSO - if you are investing in lessons or classes, it doesn't make sense to pinch on an instrument that will not function properly. Set the student up for success by choosing functional tools. 

Even when renting, beware of the VSO. Involve your teacher in the selection process, knowing their goal is to see the student succeed. 


DoReMi World Music Teacher Directory: Violin Lessons in Salem Oregon